Maintaining My Home

lower the soil or remove the foliage level so it is clear of the cladding – the bottom of the cladding must be able to dry completely. Leave a minimum 30–50 mm gap between the base of the timber and the ground to prevent moisture uptake. With suspended timber floors, ensure that lowering the garden level does not lead to surface water flowing under the house

check the extent of rot in the framing and bottom weatherboards with a screwdriver. Try to push it into the timber – if the screwdriver easily enters the timber, then the timber is rotten

replace all damaged or suspect supporting framing and weatherboards or sections of a weatherboard with treated timber. (If a weatherboard is badly affected by rot, replace the entire board rather than just sections.) When replacing timber use H3.2 treated timber for framing. For weatherboards, use H 3.1 timber with a 3-coat paint system (prime all surfaces before installation) or H3.2 treated timber. For weatherboard replacement:

where timber is sound, allow it to dry out completely. Scrape off loose coating and sand the bare timber until the surface is sound. Recoat with minimum two coats of semi-gloss or high gloss acrylic paint

for suspended timber floors, ensure good subfloor ventilation:

where possible, break up and remove concrete or paving. Reform the ground surface so there is a minimum 30–50 mm ventilation gap between the base of the timber and the ground or new paving. With suspended timber floors, ensure that surface water will flow away from the building

if concrete removal is impractical, cut off the base of the boards to provide a 30–50 mm gap for ventilation between the timber and the concrete. With suspended timber floors, ensure that surface water will flow away from the building

check the extent of rot in the bottom weatherboards and supporting framing with a screwdriver. Try to push it into the timber – if the screwdriver easily enters the timber, then the timber is rotten

replace all damaged or suspect framing, weatherboards or sections of weatherboards with treated timber. (If a weatherboard is badly affected by rot, replace the entire board rather than just sections.) When replacing timber use H3.2 treated timber for framing and for weatherboards use H 3.1 timber with a 3-coat paint system (prime all surfaces before installation) or H3.2 treated timber. For weatherboard replacement:

where timber is sound, allow it to dry out completely. Scrape off loose coating, sand the bare timber until the surface is sound. Recoat with minimum two coats of semi-gloss or high gloss acrylic paint.

for suspended timber floors, ensure good subfloor ventilation:

check the extent of rot with a screwdriver. Try to push it into the timber – if the screwdriver easily enters the timber, then the timber is rotten

replace all damaged or suspect framing and weatherboards or sections of weatherboards with treated timber. (If a weatherboard is badly affected by rot, replace the entire board rather than just sections.) When replacing timber use H3.2 treated timber for framing. For weatherboards use H 3.1 timber with a 3-coat paint system (prime all surfaces before installation) or H3.2 treated timber. For weatherboard replacement:

ensure there is at least a 30–50 mm gap between the base of the timber and the ground

where timber is sound, allow it to dry out completely. Scrape off loose coating, sand the bare timber until the surface is sound. Recoat with minimum two coats of semi-gloss or high gloss acrylic paint

for suspended timber floors, ensure good subfloor ventilation: