Leaks
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Timber weatherboards – joints opening
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Thermal expansion and contraction of timber
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Timber swelling/shrinkage caused by moisture absorption into end grain if joints were not adequately primed before installation and painting or staining
Paint failure at joints and external corners of timber weatherboards
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Moisture getting into the timber end grain
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The cut ends of boards were not primed or sealed before installation
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The timber has shrunk after installing causing joints to open
Rot in timber weatherboards
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Timber is or has been continuously damp
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Timber was inadequately treated – radiata pine must be treated to H3.1 if painted and H3.2 if installed unpainted or stained
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Non-durable or untreated timber was used – timbers such as cedar and heart macrocarpa may be untreated but they must not be continuously wet in use
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Paint coating has failed
Leaking through timber weatherboard cladding
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Split or cupped boards
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Plugs missing in rusticated weatherboards
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Scribers missing in bevel-back weatherboards
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Joints opening due to deteriorated paint finish, particularly at mitred corners
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Poor corner detailing
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No cap or saddle flashings at junctions of parapet and balcony walls
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Minimal jamb flange cover of aluminium windows
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Junctions with other claddings and/or roof poorly detailed/constructed
Split or cracked timber weatherboards
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Boards have been double nailed, preventing movement
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Boards are single-fixed but nailed through the lap preventing movement
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The timber has become too dry
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Splitting occurred during installation
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An insufficient gap was left between rusticated or rebated weatherboards during installation
Stain failure at base of timber weatherboard walls
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Cladding covered by soil/foliage
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The back surface of boards is too close to the ground, not sealed and absorbing moisture
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Concrete has been placed up to and against cladding
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High subfloor moisture levels behind the cladding
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Bottom of cladding is too close to a waterproof deck surface, apron flashing and absorbing moisture
Leaking through stained or clear-finished timber weatherboards
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Split or cupped boards
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Plugs missing in rusticated weatherboards
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Scribers missing in bevel-back weatherboards
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Joints opening due to timber movement
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Poor corner detailing
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No cap or saddle flashings at junctions of parapet and balcony walls
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Minimal jamb flange cover of aluminium windows
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Junctions with other claddings and/or roof poorly detailed/constructed
Splits or cracks in stained or clear-finished timber weatherboards
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Boards have been double nailed preventing movement
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Boards are single-fixed but nailed through the lap preventing movement
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Timber has become too dry
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Splitting occurred during installation
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Insufficient gap was left between rusticated or rebated weatherboards during installation
Rot in stained or clear-finished timber weatherboards
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Coating failure
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Timber is or has been continuously damp
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Inadequately treated timber – radiata pine must be treated to H3.2 if stained or clear finished stained
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Non-durable or untreated timber used – timbers such as cedar and heart macrocarpa may be untreated but they must not be continuously wet in use
Plywood cladding – paint failure at base of walls
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Cladding covered by soil/foliage
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The back surface of boards too close to the ground, not sealed and absorbing moisture
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Concrete has been placed up to and against cladding
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High subfloor moisture levels behind the cladding
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Bottom of cladding too close to waterproof deck surface, apron flashing and absorbing moisture
Fibre-cement cladding – sealant cracking or degradation
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UV exposure
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Sealant not suitable for being painted
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Too much movement for the grade of sealant
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Sealant not installed over a backing rod or bond breaker tape
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Sealant at end of its serviceable life
Leaking through fibre-cement cladding
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Poor corner detailing
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Cracked sheets/planks
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Paint failure
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No cap or saddle flashings at junctions of parapet and balcony walls
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Junctions with other claddings and/or roof poorly detailed/constructed
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Minimal jamb flange cover of aluminium windows
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Damaged or missing jointers/soakers